Laos - Luang Namtha 29 March - 1 April

We took the boat across the Mekong to the Laos town of Huay Xai, which took all of three minutes. Immigration procedures at Huay Xai took quite a bit longer as unfortunately we arrived just after a whole Contiki bus group had handed in all of their passports for processing. Eventually however we left and made our way to Luang Namtha, in Northen Laos.

In Luang Namtha, we rented some bicycles and biked to a waterfall 6km out of town. The waterfall itself was less than spectacular (probably more impressive in the wet season), however the ride out there was great. We passed through a few little villages and got a glimpse into Lao village life. As we rode through, kids would run out and wave, shouting ‘sabaidee’ (hello).

Funnily enough we discovered there is a café in Luang Namtha owned by a kiwi couple (Forest Retreat Laos). Excited by the prospect of baked beans, marmite, and most of all, flat whites, we decided to check it out. Unfortunately as we should’ve known, the food and coffee was a little disappointing, although the setting was nice and the staff friendly.

Every second shop, guesthouse, or restaurant along the main street of Namtha is offering various trekking or homestay options, into the nearby Nam Ha National Protected Area. We decided to go with Forest Retreat for a two day trek into the Nam Ha. We were joined by three other girls, from Belgium, France, and Slovenia, and a local Lao guide.

We trekked for around five hours the first day, and crossed a river to arrive at the forest retreat where we were to stay the night. The bamboo weave hut, at the confluence of the Nam Ha and another river was a great location. However unfortunately there was a road just across the river and diggers in plain view (and more importantly, earshot) – improving the road apparently – and a rubber plantation above that. The diggers kept on until around 10:30pm and started up again around 6am. Hardly the tranquil location we expected which was really disappointing.

Big millipede - apparently quite dangerous if you're bitten

Our accommodation for the night

The trekking itself was enjoyable, with giant bamboo plants above, below and to the sides of us. Unfortunately the views we should’ve seen were shrouded in the haze created from burning rice paddy, as is done throughout this region at this time of year. He also gave us a bit of insight into the culture of both Laos and the Khmu people, whose village we started and ended our trek in. As our trek continued our guide plucked and cut local plants tasting them and telling us the uses for each plant. At one point he picked up some flowers, took a bite, nodded his head and said “These are very sweet, used for salads in Laos” as everyone took a bite our faces puckered up from the unexpected bitterness and our guide calmly explained “you see today in Laos it is the 1^st of April” and with that burst into laughter and giggled to himself while continuing our trek.