Ha Giang – Dong Van 22nd - 24th of June

After our bus ride back from Halong we had told Viet how after Halong bay we didn’t want to do Sapa and be in another of Vietnam’s hotspots for tourism. 

So he recommended another place in the north where western tourists are few and far between, so all four of us decided to take the night bus to Ha Giang in the north of Vietnam.
After the night bus we arrived in the middle of nowhere at 4am looking in our guide books and wishing we had done some pre planning – we weren’t even sure we were in Ha Giang. After some sleepy taxi drivers asking us where we were going we ended up going to a small “resort” on the edge of town.
We must have caught the resort by surprise because they had to make up the rooms for us; once our rooms were ready we had a quick sleep.
Later that morning we hired some motorbikes and went off into town looking for some coffee and local food. We knew that when we visited Dong Van that we would need a permit to be in the area of Meo Vac as it is so close to the border of China, now there isn’t much information about how to get this permit so we spent most of the day riding around town trying to find the tourism office, we never found it. 

Route Ha Giang to Dong Van

Our resort rung a hotel in Dong Van for us and organised a room, and informed us that they would sort out the permit on arrival. As our resort didn’t have a bar we decided to have a poker night, so we rode all around down trying to find cold beer and some food. Turns out cold beer was hard to find, we stopped off for some Banh Mi to take home and the guy said the woman across the road sold beer, she had set up a small footpath bar which locals stopped off at for a beer and some peanuts. We told her we wanted around a dozen beers, so with a quick phone call a guy arrives with a crate of beer and some ice. With our supplies carefully balanced on the bike we headed back for poker night, we didn’t have any chips so we used piles of candy. 

The next day we were given two motorbikes and some dodgy helmets one of which was bashed in, they obviously only wear the helmets as it’s the law, not because it will save your head from being caved in.
We found a route on google maps and headed off, we were not even 5 minutes out of town and we got our first view of the amazing northern country side, we knew that this was going to be a great ride. We rode through open farmlands with rice paddy as far as the eye could see, over mountains (on a 100cc bike this is a very slow process) along rivers in valleys and through small villages.

We became quite the sight in the countryside, as locals would stop whatever work they were doing and stare at us as if we were the first westerners they had seen. We went through some road works and after getting some looks from the workers; Ylan chuckled and told us they had exclaimed, “white people! And look they can ride motorbikes!” After around 7 hours, lots of photo/bum rest stops. 

We had arrived in Dong Van, a small town where the surrounding Hmong people come to the morning market and sell their produce. We booked into our room and went to border control with our passports, after some money changed hands and we filled out a form we received our permit to visit the area.

Ylan had seen signs advertising duck foetus eggs, Jerry decided that we must try them, so we sat down and got a few beers, Ylan dived into the bowl of eggs and gave us a demonstration. The words membrane and juices were mentioned far too often, it turns out there is quite a technique in eating a partially developed duck. I found it wasn’t as bad as I thought, the egg itself was over cooked and the white was chewy but with a dollop of chilli the whole experience wasn’t that bad. We must have looked quite funny with the odd looks on our faces while watching Ylan and our careful approach. 

We headed out and found a hot bowl of noodle soup and went to bed, the next day our bums still a little sore we visited the local market, which was teaming with activity. A sea of colourful Hmong clothing, pigs squealing, people sell rice cakes, veges, meats and of course table after table serving up noodle soup for breakfast to all the hungry locals. 

We sat down among the tables and ordered some soup and just sat there watching the market, not a tourist in sight, no one trying to sell us tacky wares, just people living their normal lives. It was so refreshing being able to just wander and take in the surroundings as we navigated around the market. But we knew that if we wanted to get back to Ha Giang by dark we would need to leave Dong van before 10am, point to point the ride is only 150km but the winding roads and step mountains meant that is took around 6-7 hours, especially with all the bum rest stops and photo ops. 

The we got back to Ha Giang and we would be glad never to see a motorbike again. That night we had to get back to Hanoi as Ylan had to get a flight the next morning. We had found all the buses full and decided to use a local taxi to take us the 7 hours back. We thought “well this will be more comfortable than the bus”, but with 3 of us in the back and 1 in the front of a Toyota corolla we soon decided it wasn’t as comfortable as we thought. We left at around 9pm and finally got into Hanoi at 4am looking like zombies.
We arrived back at our favourite hotel finnegans greeted by Viets younger brother and were given a room and we all flopped on the beds and fell asleep, unfortunately for Ylan she only got an hour sleep or so before having to get up and catch her plane.
Myself Hannah and Jerry went to the supermarket brought some junk food and spent the day in the room watching telly nursing our sore bums.

A trip to remember 

Halong Bay 19th – 21st June

After looking at the dozens of tour operators for Halong Bay cruises, we decided to go with Alova cruises, although more expensive the boats were nicer and they didn’t cram dozens of people into a small space.

On the first day, myself, Hannah, Ylan and Jerry boarded a bus to Halong city, boarded our boat and headed out to the open sea. On arrival at our base we dropped anchor had a great lunch and although the wine bottles were on the tables we were given a complementary juice :(
After lunch we jumped in the kayaks, we went for a paddle around some islands; while the scenery is amazing the amount of rubbish floating on the surface of the water ruined the charm of the area.

Then we took a small boat to what looked like man made beach, where most of the other boats from the harbour had taken their guests, but with a high cost café, expensive deck chairs and pricey volley ball rentals we decided to just sit on the sand and admire the view, you know the view past the dozens of tourists in the water, past the jet skis, and past the rubbish floating about.

After that we had a cooking class, which was making spring rolls (again with the spring roll cooking classes!!). Then shortly after that we had dinner, spring rolls, prawns; crabs the list goes on, a great meal. Although the drinks were very pricey the little Vietnamese women from the surrounding floating villages would row up to the boat and sell cheaper beers, much to the disapproval of the bar staff.

Buy something!?!?

The next day we woke up early and took a small boat to Sung Sot cave, a huge cave that has had a path and some great lighting installed, our guide pointed out many figures that had been spotted in the cave; some obvious and some required a stretch of the imagination. 

 Later that day we headed out and took a look at the floating villages and the floating pearl farm. Our last stop for the day was at a small beach where we found a spot of water that didn’t have any rubbish and went for dip, which stopped promptly after a floating poo made its way towards us!
Later that night we made some more spring rolls and had dinner, we had smuggled a bottle of wine on board and sat on the deck in the warm night air talking with other travellers.

Reading back over this post I don’t sound too positive but I feel like it’s a fair review, Halong bay is marketed as a wonder of the natural world and boasts its UNESCO status, and yes the thousands of small islands and green water makes for a great view, but over the years this place has become the number one tourist attraction in Vietnam and I’m sure many years ago Halong bay would be a magical place, but the affects of tourism haven’t been managed well, the rubbish the over crowding, we were told in peak summer time there would be over 40 cruise ships anchored in the small area. Don’t let his put you off the idea visiting I think I was just a little let down due to the hype. 

Hanoi: 17 – 19 June, and a few other days

We arrived into Hanoi early but not so bright and despite everyone’s warnings, still ended up paying an extortionate price for a taxi to our hotel. Luckily the warm welcome we received at our hotel, Finnegan’s Hotel, made us feel much better. Owner Viet, his wife and brother, were all so lovely and helpful. Viet really went out of his way to give us advice on different trips we wanted to do to Halong Bay and the North, and detailed instructions on some fabulous restaurants to visit.

So after a shower and a bit of a rest, we met up with our Canadian friends Ylan and Jerry and headed to Hanoi’s best ‘pho’ (noodle soup) restaurant (another of Viet’s recommendations). The queue went out the door and onto the street. This place is so popular that the neighbouring restaurants have just given up trying to compete; the busy staff could be seen running into neighbouring restaurants with steaming bowls of the delicious soup.

Once refuelled, we set off to explore the city in the stifling heat. We visited the Military History Museum, which was interesting, although rather propaganda-like.

For a late lunch, we were tantalised by the smell of chargrilling pork on the street and sat down to some delicious bun cha, a popular North Vietnamese dish. Bun Cha is served as a broth with fish sauce, sugar and vinegar, with chunks of the grilled pork and a few other veges. Alongside this, you are given a plate of cold rice noodles and the ubiquitous plate of herbs, added as per your preference. You dip the noodles into the broth little by little and slurp up, also tasting the delicious grilled meat as you go. It’s also common to order a side of spring rolls, also dipped in the broth. Writing this is making my mouth water…  

Another taste sensation we tried in Hanoi was ‘egg coffee,’ or cà phê trú’ng. I think this is a Hanoi specialty, although it’s not so well known. We tried ours at Café Giang, which is a family-run Hanoi institution. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but is a cute, if simple, little café once you make your way down the dark passageway. Basically it’s Vietnamese coffee – so with sweetened condensed milk at the bottom of the cup, followed by strong coffee, (and ice if, like us, you need to cool down), and on the top is a layer of foam made from egg (I think both the yolk and white). To enjoy, you take a spoonful of each of the three layers. The result is amazingly creamy, rich and sweet – I’ve heard it compared to eating tiramisu.

Hanoi is centred around the Hoan Kiem Lake, a popular hangout spot in the evenings, by which time the temperature has dropped enough to be comfortable. Walking around the lake, you encounter young couples canoodling, older people getting their exercise in or performing some bizarre hula-like stretches, families eating ice cream, and others playing badminton. From here, many of Hanoi’s main attractions can be reached on foot, provided you can withstand the heat and humidity.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Other sights we enjoyed in Hanoi included; the One Pillar Pagoda (not impressive at all – looks like a tree hut and about as exciting, although there is some story behind it from memory), the Temple of Literature (a lovely complex set amidst a beautiful park), and the Women’s museum (interesting and very modern). Walking around the old quarter one day, we decided to visit the nearby Opera House. Somehow we managed to mistake the Hilton Opera House for the opera house itself, and found ourselves wandering around the hotel a little confused! To be fair, the hotel was rather grand, and gave the impression it could once have been an opera house, although we did feel rather silly when we realised our mistake.

Using Hanoi as a base, the four of us went on two trips – one to Halong Bay and one to the North – each time returning to Hanoi and comforts of our new favourite hotel and hotel owner.

Hue: 15 - 16 June

Our next stop was the historical city of Hue. Located along the Perfume River (which unfortunately does not smell like Perfume), Hue was the national capital, and base for the Nguyen dynasty, which ruled from 1802 until 1945, when emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favour of Ho Chi Minh’s revolutionary government (thanks wikitravel).

During the Vietnam War, Hue’s location very close to the border between North and South Vietnam, resulted in some tough times and damage to some parts of the city, although we didn’t find this noticeable today.  

Interestingly, we were told that given the relative isolation of the centre of Vietnam during the War, the Vietnamese spoken here is very different and pretty much incomprehensible to Vietnamese from the North or South.

From Hue you can trek out to the Demilitarized Zone and the Vinh Moc tunnels, the former supposedly created as a buffer between the North and South, but which suffered intense fighting.  We decided to give this a miss and instead focused on the sights of Hue itself.

Throughout Hue, relics of the Nguyen dynasty are numerous, and include the Imperial Citadel, several pagodas, and the various tombs of the Emperors. The grounds of the Citadel were quite vast, but we found the Tombs to be the most beautiful – particularly that of Tu Duc, which is situated on a lake filled with beautiful lily pads.

There really is a lot to see in Hue, and we could have spent longer exploring the various tombs and pagodas.

As ever, we’re always keen to try the local specialties, and in this case, it was the Bun Bo Hue – a delicious noodle dish.

From Hue we took the sleeper train north to Hanoi. Arriving at Hue station, we ran into Ylan and Jerry, who were headed on the same train. The carriage Kylie and I were in contained two other beds, one occupied by a rather annoying Vietnamese woman. In the middle of the night, this woman suddenly decided it would be a good idea to watch home movies on her video camera, at full volume of course. She also carried on a number of lengthy, loud, phone calls. All this meant that by the time we pulled into Hanoi at 6am, we were pretty shattered.

Hoi An: 10 – 15 June

Hoi An is beautiful, with part of the city designated a UNESCO world heritage site. There are some truly stunning buildings and temples left over from French colonial times and before. The riverfront houses the historic area of town, but also some great little restaurants, food stalls, and markets. At night, this area really comes alive with beautiful coloured lanterns, and the hustle and bustle of people eating, shopping, and selling.

In Hoi An we met up with old friends Torika and Mike from NZ, also travelling around the region, and briefly saw Ylan and Jerry again. To combat the heat, (which reached as high 42 one day!), we enjoyed many a cold ‘fresh’ beer together. ‘Fresh beer’ or ‘bia hoi’ is beer brewed locally and available in restaurants straight off the keg. It goes for as cheap as 3000 Vietnamese dong a glass – roughly 18 cents NZ! A lot of it was quite tasty too.

Something else Hoi An is known for is tailored clothing. Many people come here expressly for some tailored clothes, and you can see why. Turns out we couldn’t resist the temptation either. Depending on the quality of the materials and workmanship, many times you could get some clothes tailored for you for the same price or less than you would pay for off the rack back in NZ. Kylie got a suit, some pants (oops, trousers to those in UK…), shirts, and a jacket made – which we’re sure will come in handy for job interviews in London. Meanwhile, I got a jacket, two dresses and some shirts as well. Not wanting to cart this around with us for the next month, we shipped it all off to my brother in London.

Hoi An also has a nice beach, which you can reach easily by bicycle, and we spent a nice afternoon there, cooling off in the water or with cold drinks. One real downside about the beach however, is the ladies hawking their wares. Never have we come across more persistent and annoying vendors, some were quite simply rude. In fact, also in central Hoi An, we found the many tailors vying for your custom got a little old after a while too. Sadly it seems as though many of the locals have grown weary of the mass of tourists which visit Hoi An, and have little patience or thought for marketing strategy. That said – the town is definitely still worth a visit.

In Hoi An, there are a few great places to eat. One street stall we found served the most amazing banh mi – this is a Vietnamese sandwich; served in a baguette, with all types of meat (including ‘head cheese’ (google it), cucumber, carrot, chilli, fish sauce, coriander, and sometimes egg – while it doesn’t sound like much, it’s simply delectable. We also discovered another delicious dish – bun bo nam bo – a type of noodle salad, served with grilled beef, fresh vegetables, sprouts, chilli, cucumber, mint, coriander and peanuts.  

Da Lat: 8-10 June

We suffered a long and very bumpy and windy ride from the coastal town of Mui Ne to Da Lat, in Vietnam’s Central Highlands. Later we read that this particular journey is a bit renowned – so we didn’t pick it very well. In Dalat, high up in the central highlands, the cooler temperatures were a welcome relief from the heat of most of Vietnam. We stayed at a great little hotel there (Thien An), with the most amazing breakfast spread, complete with fresh avocadoes, mango, delicious bread, eggs, and more.
Over breakfast we chatted to some fellow travellers, including two Canadians, Jerry and Ylan, who we got to know quite well and ended up travelling with on and off for the rest of our time in Vietnam.

Dalat has a lot of local Vietnamese tourists, but not so many international tourists. We were there in the school holidays and many families were taking the opportunity to enjoy the cooler climes of Dalat, and the products that go along with that, like avocadoes, coffee, and roses. As a consequence, we found the town to have quite a different feel. At night, the markets in the centre of the town came alive with street vendors serving all kinds of delectable nibbles.

While in Dalat we enjoyed being able to walk around without feeling sweaty the second you step out the door. We visited Bao Dai’s palace, went up the cable car/gondola, for a view over the city, and spent some time just chilling out in a café.

The following day we went on an organised tour which took in; a factory producing silk garments (quite interesting to see the whole process), some impressive waterfalls, a coffee plantation, flower garden, a pagoda with a huge blue-ish Buddha, the Dalat railway station, and the ‘crazy house’.

As part of the tour, we were offered the chance to try the ‘weasel-poo coffee’ – which naturally, we jumped at. For the uninitiated, the story behind this follows that a particular animal (weasel, or civet cat in Indonesia I believe), naturally eats coffee beans as part of their diet. This animal has a finely tuned sense of smell and can detect the good beans over the average or bad. It then eats the beans, and what comes out the other end is the bean, still intact in its husk. These beans are then collected and processed as per normal, resulting in a particularly delicious brew.

In Dalat however, the weasels are simply kept in cages and fed coffee beans (rather than going and foraging for the best beans), so presumably the result is a little different. At any rate, we tried it, and can’t say that it really tasted any different to other coffee we had had in Vietnam, so that was a bit anti-climactic.

The ‘crazy house’ was really something different. I can’t remember the story behind it, but it’s basically a ‘house’ that has been created with the most eccentric, weird and wonderful architecture. It includes trees growing inside the house, odd shaped beds and rooms. Imagine a cross between Alice in Wonderland and an Antoni Gaudí building. You can also actually stay the night there, however while I’d recommend it for a visit, I wouldn’t suggest you stay.

After our marathon bus effort to Dalat, and given the distance to our next stop, Hoi An, we decided to fly out – our first flight in a number of months.

Mui Ne, 5 – 8 June

Next stop was some more beach time. We had heard that Mui Ne was a little less touristy than Nha Trang and so decided to try there. There turned out to be, however, quite an abundance of Russian tourists and resorts all along the strip of beach. The restaurants left a lot to be desired, unless you were prepared to fork out a decent amount for some seafood. We did manage to find a nice local food stall though, and enjoyed some good ole’ pho (noodle soup) for a fraction of the cost.
The main road along the beach was stiflingly hot at the time, but in our hotel high in the dunes, we were very glad of the breeze that made its way to us. We spent a few days enjoying a nice hotel, view, and a little bit of the beach, and then decided to move on.