Kuching 17 - 22 Feb

Kuching is a really nice city. It’s the capital of the state of Sarawak and is divided by the Sarawak River. The central part of the city – business area, shops, hotels, etc., is on the south bank of the river, while on the north are various Malay kampungs, the Fort Margarita, and the Astana. It’s really nice to walk along the river which is fringed with flowers and trees. At night, it’s bustling locals and tourists alike frequenting the stalls selling dinner and drinks.

While in Kuching, we stayed at a small hostel in the centre of town. Most of the time it was just us there, and it felt like having our own apartment. Having your own space was a welcome change from our shared dorm in Singapore. The owner, Wes, was lovely and chatted to us a bit, giving us advice on what to do and see.


We visited the Sarawak museum which gave us an insight into the history of Sarawak and the different cultures that make it up. I knew there were a lot of different ethnic groups in Malaysia in general, but I don’t think I really appreciated quite how many – it turns out there are in fact 40 different ethnic groups in Sarawak alone, each with their own distinct language, culture and lifestyle.


One of the culinary delights we enjoyed in Kuching was Sarawak Laksa. Different from other laksas, this one includes, among other things, omelette and chicken strips. Emilia from our cooking class recommended a particular spot for our morning laksa, as there are so many places to choose from. You have to get in quick too – come 10am it’s often all sold out. Conclusion: simply delicious.
We also tried Kolok mee at the weekend markets, specific to Sarawak as well. This is egg noodles which look a little like ramen and come with a broth on the side. Often shredded beef is included. 

Kolok Mee

Weekend market - Saturday night

Previous posts cover other activities in and around Kuching (cooking class, Bako National Park), and then we headed to Kota Kinabalu for our big climb. An update to come about that shortly.

Bako National Park 20/02/12

While talking with our hostel owner Wes in Kuching we mentioned that we might look at Bako National park whilst in the area. Wes suggested that we might want to stay the night there as the wildlife generally sleeps during the heat of the day and that morning and evening was the best time to get the most out of the island, and that he would waive that nights accommodation and seeing that a stay in the park was around the same price we decided to do just that.

After a bus ride we were at the jetty waiting for a boat to take us the 20 minute journey up river and around a few bays to the entrance to national park. An elderly gentleman explained to us that once we got out of the river the ocean was rough today and there were big swells - after looking at our small boat we nervously agreed. 

At first sight of these swells our nervousness was justified, they must have been 2 metres high and breaking. After our expert skipper navigated the first few by slowing the boat down or turning us sideways we knew he had a lot of experience on these waters and sure enough he got us there in one piece and with only a few splashes making it on board.

After making our way to the headquarters we paid our nights accommodation and headed for our room. On our way someone mentioned "careful, monkeys like plastic bags" and sure enough by the time we got to the accommodation building we had a small gathering of macaque monkeys following us. After a short trail walk we had dinner, watched the sunset and went to bed, the heat and humidity of a rain forest had taken it out of us and by 9pm we were asleep.

The next morning enjoyed some breakfast looking over the beach whilst we decided on which trail to take. We settled on the lintang trail (5.25km) as it was a loop and covered a lot of different terrain. Shortly after we were off armed with a camera and 3 litres of water.

Along the trail we saw the rare proboscis monkey hunting for shellfish at low tide.

After that we headed into the dense forest. The humidity was intense you could feel it on your clothes and skin within minutes. At first we thought we had bitten off more than we could chew; as the day went on it got hotter and hotter, we soon realised that we were going to have to watch how much water we had on hand. 

The trail itself was beautiful with flora that had exploded no doubt due to the perfect glass house like conditions, and the sounds of the fauna all around us, the birds, the crickets and now and then the sound of monkeys breaking branches as they moved about.

On the trail itself we saw some fauna including bearded pigs, giant ants, countless flying creatures and the biggest spider I have ever seen in my life, which had created a giant web right next to the walking path.

Much to our delight we had made it out of the trail and headed directly to the canteen to get lunch and more water, after lunch we had a few hours to kill before the boat so we decided to re-hydrate and relax under the cool fans of the canteen while looking out at the beach.

Before we left I decided to take a little walk along the beach and found some monkeys hiding in the shade of the trees eating fruit.

After we got to the jetty and our skipper from the day before was there to meet us even though the swells were just as big as the day before our expert navigator kept the speed just right so we rode the waves in without any issues.

Kuching, cooking class 19/02/12

We spent t­he whole day doing a cooking class. We met lovely Emilia and her husband in the morning and went shopping at the Sunday market. The market was an astounding array of fruits and vegetables of all shapes and sizes, as well as meat and the freshest fish and seafood. It was great going with a local and being able to ask what different things were. We bought enough for a small army and stopped off for a bite to eat before heading to Emilia’s.

Emilia navigating the markets

Emilia navigating the markets

We took the boat across the Sarawak River to Emilia’s village (kampung) on the north shore. The village was a small collection of houses, a number at the water’s edge. We spent quite a while preparing all of the ingredients – I have never peeled and chopped up that much garlic or shallots in my life! As Emilia explained, being a part of the whole process including preparation, gives us more of an insight into the culture and all that is involved in putting together such a feast. It was also interesting hearing a little about Emilia and her family – her mother is Bidayuh and her father half Bidayuh and half Melanau – two of Sarawak’s ethnic groups.

Boat ride across the river

The three dishes we made were beef rendang, a true Malaysian favourite, pansoh manok (tapioca leaves and chicken marinated in garlic, ginger, and lemongrass, and then stuffed in bamboo sticks and cooked over the fire – in the absence of a fire and bamboo sticks, you can just steam it in a pot), and midin (jungle ferns – this particular type specific to Sarawak – cooked with prawn paste and dried fish).

Kylie and I, Emilia and her mother were busy most of the day preparing and cooking the food, interrupted every so often by playing with or disciplining Emilia’s gorgeous 3 year old son. Emilia’s husband also spent a long time outside patiently tending to the pansoh over the fire.

The process of cooking the rendang was particularly interesting. We gently toasted the coconut in a wok until it was golden brown, then grinded it in a mortar and pestle until it was a deep brown and slightly oily. Then the gradual cooking of the beef with chilli, ginger, garlic, turmeric, shallot, galangal with coconut milk. Right towards the end the ground toasted coconut and turmeric leaves (I believe) are added.

Late in the afternoon we sat down to feast with Emilia’s family – her children, mother and father. The rendang tasted delicious, tender and full of favour. The pansoh was deliciously moist and succulent and flavoured by the bamboo. The midin had the texture of mesclun and tasted of the shrimp paste and dried fish.

Overall, a great experience and an enjoyable day’s cooking. Anyone interested should definitely look into it (it’s only on Sundays) – you can get in touch about the course via this email address: kakrosnah@gmail.com.

Mt Kinabalu climb

At 3200m. The guesthouse, a couple of hours sleep before the climb to the summit at 2:30am for sunrise! Fingers crossed we can walk the following day!

Singapore

I think Kylie and I had the longest Valentine’s Day ever – unfortunately in this case, just a lot of time in planes and airports. We had a long stopover in Sydney and had planned to go into the city. But it turns out we would have had to pay a $90 ‘arrival fee’ each – so we decided it wasn’t worth it.

Eventually though we arrived into Singapore and were met by the friendly face of Shenwei.

Chinatown with Shenwei

Arriving into a hot humid climate is always such a shock, even though you know to expect it. It’s like walking into a wall of dense fog – the air is so thick and the heat just presses down on you and leeches you of your energy. We keep on falling into the trap of trying to do too much (at least, too much in the heat of the day) and then feeling utterly knackered. We really need to turn into night owls.

We had only two and a half days in Singapore but managed to fill them with culinary delights. We navigated our way through a hawker centre and enjoyed the ‘best’ Hainanese chicken rice, and oyster cake. One night we gorged ourselves on chilli crab and honey-oatmeal crusted prawns, washed down with tiger beer in Chinatown – thanks to our gracious host Shenwei!

Maxwell Hawker Centre

We saw some of the obligatory ‘must-sees’ in Singapore – like the Durian (esplanade theatres on the bay), Merlion statue, a few temples (Chinese, Hindu, and a few mosques), and wandered along Orchard Road and the harbour-front. We visited the Botanic Gardens (lots of photos of trees taken for my tree-fanatic uncle Cliff – will email them through at some point) – quite pleasant to wander around, and some interesting plants and cute turtles. And a pleasant afternoon was spent in Arab town at a corner Turkish tea and shisha café.

A strange observation – Singaporeans seem to be obsessed with Angry Birds (computer/phone game for those of you not in the know :P) – we saw so many people wearing Angry Birds t-shirts, and Kylie’s latte was even served with an Angry Birds character drawn in the foam.

Singapore is such a funny place. On one side, there’s the stringent laws on littering, and the efficiency and orderliness of the MRT (subway), and the finest hotels and the haute couture shops lining the harbour-front and Orchard Rd; while on the other, there’s the bustling hawker centres, and grubby alleyways of Chinatown, Arabtown or Little India. Singapore’s residents are quite a mix too of course – expats, South Indians, Malays, and Chinese being the most noticeable groups.

Orchard Road

Now we’re in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia (Borneo) and have five days here. Another post to follow soon about Kuching.

Ode to Wellington

Well to leave transit at Sydney airport is $90 each so we have decided to spend 9 hours wandering around the airport, boredom strikes and I heard the song "my favourite things" and I figured it would suit an ode to Wellington. The things I will miss about Wellington.

The Yellow fever and the rain at the phoenix

bright yellow frujus and my favourite caffeine fix

A bottle of L&P served over ice

These are things that make Wellington nice.

Sushi at midlands and crisp hoppy ales

Weta and Te Papa and fishing in gales

Sunny days spent at Kaffee eis

These are the things that make Wellington nice

Kylie is now unemployed!

For the first time in around 8 years I don't have a job and I'm not waiting to start a new job, it's a little strange not thinking about work, but every time I remind myself of my extended holiday, a sly smile arrives.
Here's to taking some time out for myself and taking it slow *cheers*
To my old team at TCL here's to all the years, the laughs, the long nights and working weekends.
I have learnt a lot over my time and made some great friends who I hope I can keep in touch with and will see again.
Below are some pictures from the leaving drinks.

At this point Hemu probably should have stopped drinking then he might have made it into work on Friday. :D

blue sky!

Practising GI Joe face for the sevens